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Basic Essentials | Shelter | Sleeping System | Backpack | Summary
Some paragraphs will appear with borders like this one. While the information in these paragraphs is still valid it has been supplanted by more recent ideas. Typically, you will see this only when I am discussing specific items of gear like backpacks or sleeping bags.
There are a few items that most backpackers carry. Some people will talk about the ten, twelve, fourteen, or some other number of essential items. I have my own list of things that I consider eseential for any type of trip from the short day hike to a months long though hike.
My list of essential items doesn't change from trip to trip. That is, I always carry certain supplies for specific tasks. But, the specific pieces of gear can change. For example, while I always take a shelter with me I'm not going to carry a tent on a day hike when an emergency space blanket/bag will suffice.
Everyone has their own idea of what the most important essential items are. I'll simply list mine with some brief comments here on why I take them. Like many things in ultralight backpacking if you are creative and throughtful you can lighten this list considerably. Items in this list are not listed in any particular order.
Map: You should always have a basic map with you. The map doesn't have to be exceptionally detailed, but it should provide enough detail for you to find your way out of the wilderness. For example, I have found that while the excellent topographic maps for the Appalachian Trail are great I am perfectly comfortable hiking on such well developed trail (and what surrounds the AT) with far less detailed maps. On the other hand, if I were hiking in a more remote region I'd want a far more detailed map.
While a topographic map will always provide more detail it may not always be necessary and, at times, can actually be a hindrance if it is not accurate or you do not know how to read it. Make sure you know how to read your maps. It isn't hard, but it does take a little effort.
Compass: A compass may not be needed if you are hiking on a well developed trail system, but since the most basic compasses weigh less than an ounce and are generally all you need you should always have one. Learn how to use your compass. It isn't hard, but it does take some practice. Some people will suggest you get a compass with features including adjustable declination and a flip out signal mirror, but a basic hand-held 0 to 360 degree compass is usally all most people will need. The features I just mentioned do have their uses, taking bearing can be easier and the mirror can be used as a self-examination aid (e.g., finding ticks) as well as signalling, I am quite happy with a basic Silva.
Food: You really should carry some extra food. If you are just going out for a day hike then carrying an extra meal, a few high calories snack items, may be enough. If you are going on a backpcking trip then carrying an extra day of food is probably a good idea. The food doesn't have to be special, but it should be adequate to keep you going in case something goes awry.
Water: Carry enough water for your day hike. It is better to err on the side of carrying too much rather than too little. While water is very heavy (a pint's a pound the world around; 1 liter = 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds) you do not want to become dehydrated during your trip. A person can survive far longer without food than he or she can without water so pay attention to this one. You may want to carry some form of water treatment even on a day hike. I'd carry chemical treatment since it is far and away the lightest and will get me through.
When backpacking I always carry (except in winter) some form of water treatment. Unless I am very sure of a water source, and that is rare, I always treat it. Why risk getting ill from a water-borne virus or bacteria when it is easy to prevent.
People have found all sorts of ways to carry water. The classic Nalgene bottle still does have a place in my pack for winter camping, but there are vastly lighter options available. Clean soda bottles work quite well as do many of the water bladders like Cascade Designs Platypus.
Flashlight: Depending on the type of trip you are planning this doesn't have to be anything very big. However, even on a day trip I have a small LED light handy hanging off my keychain. A flashlight will make getting around your camp easier and even a small one, like the fraction of an ounce single LED Photon II can, in a pinch, help you find your way on a trail as it is getting dark. If I am planning a longer trip or a trip where darkness comes early I may choose a brighter, and therefore heavier, light. Today such a flashlight (or headlamp) will almost certainly be an LED one. LED lights burn much longer than typical incandescent bulbs and maintain a constant brightness throughout a battery's life.
There are numerous lights out there. Here is a brief list of ones I like or have used.
Knife: A small pocket knife can be used for many things from cutting up food, cutting rope, cutting first aid tape, and so on. I have yet to find a reason for a large knife. The little Swiss Army Classic that hangs on my keychain has always been enough.
First aid kit: This doesn't have to be complicated. In fact, you should only carry items you feel comfortable using. If you are going on a long long trip or to somewhere quite remote taking a wilderness first aid class could be quite handy (I've yet to do this). My basic kit contains items to handle simple injuries: blisters, cuts, sprains, and so on. Package your kit in bags that are waterproof so the items remain dry.
Toiletries: This is a very small kit, but I think you should always carry some basic hygene items. I do believe that good hygene, even on a day hike, is quite important if you wish to maintain your health. I believe more people compromise their health with poor hygene than suffer illness due to water-borne disease (though that certainly can, and does, happen). To that end I aalways carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer if nothing else.
Shelter: On a backpacking trip you are bound to carry a tent or tarp. If you are going to go backpacking and then do side trips you still should carry some sort of shelter. Even on day hikes a basic shelter against the elements is worth carrying. Space blankets (or better bags) are light and provide good emergency shelter. Some people will use their rain poncho as an emergency shelter. I discuss my backpacking shelter choices below.
Clothing: Besides the clothing you normally wear you should carry clothing for when the weather turns foul. Usually this means appropriate rain and/or wind gear. Pick lightweight clothing that you can keep dry and change into if the need arises. A more complete discussion of clothing can be found here.
Fire Starter: Having a way to start a small fire to keep warm, boil water, cook on, is important. Fire starter should include waterproof / windproof matches and materials that make starting a small blaze easier like vasilene soaked cotton balls. Products like the Spark-Lite also work well.
Backpack: This almost goes without saying. You need something to carry your gear whether it is as small as a fanny pack or a monster load carrying backpack. On typical day hikes I carry an old reliable daypack that has more than enough room to carry extra clothing, a big lunch, plenty of water, and whatever else needs to go into it. On backpacking trips I choose my backpack based on the amount of weight I plan to carry and on how it is best to carry that weight. For example, if I am planning a trip where I expect I will carry about 25 pounds my frameless GVP G4 (now Gossamer Gear G4) is probably enough. However, if I want to carry awkward items in that same 25 pound load such as my Manfrotto tripod I will likely choose my McHale Speed Bump instead because it is better suited to carrying heavier loads and peculiar items. I try to tailor my choice to the trip that I am on. That choice may also be influenced by the length of the trip and the overall fit of the backpack. I will carry a heavier backpack if I consider its comfort sufficiently better to warrant the extra weight. I also take the type of trail/backcountry conditions into account. If I am going to be hiking where the potential for rough (e.g., rocky) terrain is high I will pick a backpack that is stronger and therefore probably heavier. After all, you don't want your backpack to tear. I discuss my backpacking backpack choices below.
There are other items that are often considered essential. Typical examples include: sunscreen, lip balm, sunglasses, and bug repellant or bug proof clothing. I carry some or all of these sometimes, but I don't consider them essentials. If I was going on a trip where bugs were not going to be a factor I'd not carry bug repellant at all. I'd forego sunglasses (I really don't like them) on trips that do not feature intense sun whehter from being at high altitude or reflected off water or snow.
Astute readers will have noticed I did not include sleeping bags in the list of items above. If I am going to go backpacking I will carry some type of sleeping bag to ward off the nighttime chill, but for a day hike or short side trip an emergency shelter combined with my dry clothing should suffice.
In the list of items I describe above three consume the bulk of a backpack's base weight: the backpack itself, shelter, and sleeping gear. These items are often referred to as the big three. In the following paragraphs I'll talk about my choices for these items.
The big three can consume half of the backpack's base weight. When I carried heavier loads my backpack would weigh 5.5 pounds, sleeping system 4.5 pounds, and shelter about 4.5 pounds. That 15 pound total was nearly half of the base weight for the backpack. Today while the total weight of the big three items is a mere 5.5 pound that is still nearly half of the backpack's base weight.
There are two basic types of shelters: tents and tarps. Each has advantages and disadvantages. The tent is the first type of shelter most people will think of when they are considering shelters for backpacking. After all, a tent is something everyone has seen. Tents provide a place to call your own that will feel secure from the world outside. Those four walls, sloping ceiling, and floor can give a great sense of security and that shouldn't be dismissed out of hand. Tarps lack that sense of security that a tent can give. A tarp is not sealed like a tent and does not have a floor. The world outside the tarp is much closer to the person under the tarp. But, a tarp that is set up well will provide just as much protection as a properly set up tent (to say nothing of an improperly pitched tent). Tarps can be set up in a variety of ways depending on your needs and what the local environment dictates. A tarp is considerably lighter than a tent. I cannot tell you which type of shelter you will prefer. I will tell you which I use and why.
For the most part if I am going to be doing three season camping I will use a tarp. The tarp I use is the Integral Designs Sil Shelter (13.1oz. plus 5.3oz. for nine assorted stakes). This is a tarp that has a shape to it. I like the Sil Shelter because it is almost as flexible as a more traditional tarp, but far easier to set up. I've seen people sleep in Sil Shelters quite comfortably even in the worst thunderstorm. Just because the Sil Shelter, or any tarp, lacks a floor does not mean you will get wet from rain. You do have to pitch the shelter a bit more carefully, but even if you choose to use a tent you have to pay attention to how and where you pitch the shelter. I save considerable weight when using a tarp and I do get to bring the outside world a little closer to me which is nice. The biggest disadvantage of the Sil Shelter, or any tarp, is that I don't have quite as good protection from the outside world. That becomes an issue when bugs are out in force. However, that can be dealt if you have some sort of bug protection like a mesh bivy sack or at least a bug headnet.
When I use a Sil Shelter I usually will take a bivy sack with me. For me this means a simple sleeping bag cover like my anceint Feathered Friends sleeping bag cover (15.8oz). If I expect temperatures are going to get chilly the bivy will add considerable warmth. A bivy also protects your sleeping bag from any rain splatter and that is important.
When I use a Sil Shelter I usually will take a bivy sack with me. This means a simple sleeping bag cover. I have a homemade silnylon/pertex bag cover that has served me quite well since 2000. This bag cover is not as bombproof as the Feathered Friends bag but it doesn't have to be. It still blocks stray wind gusts and rain. It therefore helps increase the overall insulating abilities of my sleeping bag. This bivy weighs just under 8 ounces.
If, however, I am going to go three season camping and I expect that the weather could be harsh I may instead take a tent. For example, if I expect a trip will often have rainy nights and frequently very cold nighttime temperatures even though the daytime ones are high I may opt for the extra security of a tent (in recent years the vast majority of 3-season camping has, however, been under my Sil Shelter). Choosing a lightweight tent is difficult. Most manufacturers don't make really light tents. The few that do are smaller concerns, but since I don't want to carry a 4 pound small one person tent my choices are limited. I settled on Stephenson's Warmlite two person tent. This is actually a four season tent and it will handle anything I could ever have thrown at it. The 2RSLD Stephenson tent (52-55oz. depending on how many stakes I carry) is an exceptional product. But, it may be out of reach of most people. There are some other very light tents that aren't as roomy or as weather worthy, but still quite good. If I did not already own a Stephenson tent and Sil Shelter I would likely purchase a Nomad from Wanderlust Gear. The Stephenson tent is a sizable two person tent and if I were on a trip with a partner this would be the tent we would share since the Sil Shelter is not large enough.
There is one other time when a tent may be a superior choice to a tarp: heavy bug season. If I am camping during bug season and using a tarp then I need to bring some sort of bug bivy like my A16 Bug Bivy along. A tent may be the better choice here. Today, late in 2002, there are more options available. One of the more intriguing is Henry Shire's Tarp Tent.
I also use the 2RSLD for winter camping. In the winter I want to have a tent that I can rely upon in the worst weather and the Stephenson fills that bill. I know people who have used tents like the Nomad in the winter, but I'm not sure I'd do that. I have used my Sil Shelter in conditions where temperatures at night were below freezing, but that is only if I am going somewhere and do not expect snow covered ground: just modestly below freezing temperatures (e.g., not less than 20°F). For snow camping the Stephenson can't be beat.
Getting a good night's sleep is important. You don't need to carry a lot of stuff to achieve it. Besides your shelter (tent, tarp, bivy) you really only need a couple of things: a sleeping bag or quilt and sleeping pad. Some people might dispense with the pad given the right conditions, but I like to have something etween me and the hard, sometimes quite cold, ground. Choosing the right gear is a matter of taste.
Sleeping Bags and Quilts
You should choose a sleeping bag that fits you and will keep you warm in the conditions you expect to use it. This is a deceptively simple task. You need to decide what style (mummy, rectangular, semi-rectangular) sleeping bag to use; ; what type of insulation (down or synthetic) to use; what type of shell material should the bag have; and, perhaps most important, how warm is warm enough.
In general, I use a Western Mountaineering Iroquois (23.9oz.) for most three season camping trips. I think one reason the bag is so warm is that it has a very good hood. Keeping your head warm will make it much easier to stay warm throughout the night. The bag weighs 24 ounces and has never let me down. It is a very warm bag and I do often find that I unzip it most of the way and turn it into a sleeping quilt instead.
I now also have a Nunatak Back Country Blanket (21.1oz. this has a few ounces of overfill). This is more of a sleeping quilt than sleeping bag although it can be conigured into a sleeping bag shape. I purchased mine with some extra down overfill so it weighs just over 21 ounces, but is actually a little loftier than my Iroquois. I purchased the Back Country Blanket as an overbag (well quilt) to use in conjunction with the Iroquois in the winter. It adds several inches of loft, hence warmth, and the combined total weight of the two bags is comparable to a single winter bag with similar loft. I also can use the Back Country Blanket for three season camping. While the BCB has more loft than the Iroquois its lack of a hood become quite noticeable as the mercury falls.
While a lighter, less lofty bag or quilt like the Back Country Blanket, is more than up to the challenge for warmer weather trips (and if it is really warm at night a simple silk liner in a bag cover bivy bag may be enough; or, wearing just a high-lofting jacket in a bivy bag) as the nightime temperature dips more bag will be needed. Some people will choose to use a less lofty bag and wear more clothing to bed. While this certainly has advantages I prefer using a loftier bag with less clothing. A bag/quilt like my Nunatak Arc Alpinist is my choice for much of my spring and fall hiking. This is actually my lightest, ounce for ounce, bag but it is also the warmest.
If I am taking a trip and do not expect low temperatures to dip below 50-55°F I will probably just take a silk bag liner and my silnylon/pertex bivy sack. I can wear clothing if I get chilly, but that is not likely. When the evening lows are still above freezing I will probably pick the Back Country Blanket. While the Arc Alpinist is a bit lighter it is actually a bit too warm for these conditions. I have used the Back Country Blanket when the low temperature was probably closer to 20°F than 30°F but I have then worn some of my insulation layer clothing too. If I am on a trip where I expect low temperatures at or below this level the Arc Alpinist is the bag of choice. Readers will notice I did not mention the Iroquois. I may actually choose this 24 ounce (3 ounces more than the BCB) bag under certain conditions. Depending on how I lay te Iroquois out it can be used in warmer weather than the BCB and sometimes in weather that is cooler if, and only if, I have not brought a down hood along.
Sleeping Pads
A good sleeping pad will make your slumber more pleasant. Sleeping pads come in three general classes: self-inflating, closed cell foam, and open cell foam. I have used the first two though these days I mostly use closed cell foam pads.
You want a pad to do two things. Make the ground you are sleeping on more comfortable and keep the cold at bay. Closed cell foam pads like my Cascade Designs Ridge Rest (Deluxe long for winter use: 18oz.) or their self-inflatable Therm-a-Rest (3/4 length Ultralight 15oz; my old 1.5 inch thick, full length Therm-a-Rest 36.3oz.) are quite good at achieving both goals. While the Therm-a-Rest pads are ccertainly a lot more comfortable I've found that a good foam pad is almost as comfortable and certainly a lot lighter. I have also found that a pad doesn't have to extend my entire length to work. Most people, including me, are happy with a pad that is two thirds to three quarters long (40-48 inches; a regular is usually 72 inches). If you can live with a shorter pad by all means go that route since you will save considerable weight. The one time you want a pad to extend your full length is when the ground is cold. Cold ground will suck the heat from your body very quickly so you need as much insulation between you and the ground as you can reasonably get.
I prefer foam pads because ounce for ounce they are the warmest and are still quite comfortable. While an inflating pad is more comfortable is is not going to be as warm overall. Once the air in the pad settles (i.e., cools) the pad will loose some insulation ability and that is a serious limitation especially in the winter. If a self-inflating pad is punctured you end up loosing pretty much all its insulating ability until you can fix the pad. For these reasons I never use self-inflating pads in the winter. Instead I use the Deluxe Ridge Rest (full length).
I said above that I like the Ridge Rest. I've also used Cascade Designs Z-Rest (8 sections: 8.0oz.) though I find it leaves an odd impression in my skin and isn't as comfortable as the Ridge Rest. The High Country Outdoor Products Mount Washington pad is my pad of choice these days. This pad weighs about 8 ounces and is 60 inches long. Naturally, you can trim this closed cell foam pad to your desired size. I have not done this. It is nice having a pad that I can completely lay upon. While a Therm-a-Rest pad is still more comfortable I have found I sleep quite well on the Mount Washington whether I am on Appalachian Trail shelter floors or the ground.
Other things for Sleeping
I sometimes take a sleeping bag liner with me on trips. A good silk sleeping bag liner (4.7oz.) will not only add 5-9°F of warmth, but it feels much nicer against your skin than most sleeping bag shell material and helps you keep the bag clean by blocking dirt, grime, and body oils. I tend to consider the extra 5 ounces worth it.
Wearing vapor barrier clothing or using a vapor barrier sleeping bag liner can also greatly extend a sleeping bag's range when used under the proper conditions. I talk about vapor barrier clothing on the clothing page. Besides extending the temperature range of a sleeping bag a good vapor barrier when used in the right conditions (well below freezing) will keep you comfortable and keep moisture generated by your own body from entering the sleeping bag. Moisture from your own body, sweat, will reduce a sleeping bag's performance and add weight to the bag. Neither of these is deisrable.
Finding a good backpack is tough. You need to find a backpack that is able to carry your load comfortably. I'm not going to try and describe how to fit a backpack since there are other places that do a good job of that already (see Addtional Information page). Remember, since you are carrying a lighter load you probably won't need as capacious a pack as you once did. Nor will it have to have a killer suspension system. There are many good light weight packs out there. There is no reason to get sucked into buying pack that is too large. However, I will accept a backpck that is a bit heavier if it fits far better tha a lighter one. There is no good reason to suffer here. If you aren't comfortable carrying the weight you need to carry you aren't likely to enjoy your trip.
With all that being said my typical backpack these days is the GVP Gear G4 (now Gossamer Gear G4) backpack (13.4oz). It is meant to carry ultralight loads, loads less than 25-28 pounds all told, and it does so quite well. I've found that I can use the G4 backpack in a wide variety of conditons.
If I am going to be carrying awkward gear, want extra comfort, need a pack that can handle the abuse of rough terrain, then I will choose a different pack. While the GVP G4 was certainly spacious enough for all the stuff I would carry on a slot canyon hike it would not be my first choice since it is not designed to carry heavy loads and could rip easily against the walls of a slot canyon. My McHale Speed Bump or Macpac Ravine would be better choices. The McHale might be a better long term choice if I was going to do an extended hike along a trail like the Appalachian Trail. While the AT is not rough and rugged like a slot canyon in Arizona and my overall load can be easily kept below 28 pounds I may still use the McHale because day in and day out it should prove more comfortable.
The following table summarizes the gear choices I tend to make for 3 season and winter camping. The weights listed are not exact, but are very close to being fully accurate. In some cases I will take the Sil Shelter in the winter instead of the tent (the irish Wilderness trip of February 2001 is a good example. Nighttime temperatures were in the teens: weight was about 6.9 pounds). As you can see this selection of gear can range in overall weight from 4.8 pounds to 10.5 pounds depending on how severe the conditions are going to be.
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Last update: August 18, 2004
First Written: March 12, 2001
| Copyright © 2001-2004 Kenneth Knight | Home | Resumé | Travel | Web Design | mail Ken (krk@speakeasy.org) |